"Off the Lip"

Surf Widow of Another Kind

2010-09-07T16:23:00.001-04:00

The colloquialism “surf widow” often refers to that innate reaction to hurricane swell that mysteriously forces you to drop everything you’re doing to travel and catch as many waves as possible. Your significant other (and family) is left in the wake as the metaphorical widow to take care of all the household duties – cook, clean, mow the lawn, pick up the kids, paint the house, fix the commode – you name it. But this article is dedicated to a surf widow of a different flavor altogether – your trusty and very unselfish surf photographer.

While you’re lacerating the lip, pulling behind the curtain, and otherwise carving a wave like a Jack-O-Lantern, these guys are sacrificing their time to capture our surf sessions, leaving family friends to fend for themselves just as we are. Surfs up in Hatteras? No problem – they will take day off to shoot. Eastern Surfing Association contest located a few counties away and held in boring, marginal surf? – You’ll hear no complaints from these guys. Going to a remote island to camp out for a couple days to catch it just right and spend some quality time with the State bird (the mosquito) in the process? – Done deal, they have their tent set up before you get off the boat. The surf photographer is everywhere and even spends more time afterward to load photos on the web for everyone to see. The monetary rewards are few and far between, but the passion lives for the next swell, whether it 2 or 10 feet. Even more amazing is that considering the fickle nature of our waves and generally sparse population, Bogue Banks may claim a higher surf photographer density than anywhere along the East Coast. Heck, some of these guys are just as good subjects for surf photography as they are photographers, and they still rather shoot than surf, i.e., they rip!!! So without further ado and by no means in any particular order, below is a list of our dedicated surf photographers. Go out of your way to thank these guys the next time it’s cookin’ out there, while meanwhile they are on the beach or are treading water for hours on end taking about a thousand shoots per session.

Brad Styron at http://www.bradstyronphotography.com/. – My good buddy and deserves a strong tip of the hat for igniting the surf photography revolution here along Bogue Banks in my humble opinion. His portfolio is A+.

Graham Hunt at http://www.surferphotos.com/. – Another real good buddy who always has a smile on his face. He travels well and is “in the know”.

Jarred Bell at http://www.islandvibephotography.com/. – Environmentally conscious and hard working. The phrase “Not afraid to travel” would be an understatement.

John Sudbrink at http://sudbrinkjj.zenfolio.com/. – Somehow squeezes in surf photography in the middle of serving in the military and raising family. Nice as heck too.

Jay Getsinger at http://www.jgetsingerphotography.com/. – Word dedication comes to mind. He lives in Winterville and likes to surf to say the least, but more times than not travels down to Bogue Banks just to shoot. Has some great nature shots on his website – loves the great outdoors.

Mike Boykin at http://mkboykin.smugmug.com/. – I don’t know Mike as well as the others to be quite honest, but no difference – he has skills. Some of his wildlife shots are mind blowing too.

Ps & Qs of Surfing

2010-09-07T16:18:00.001-04:00

Struggling for a topic to discuss this month and looking for some inspiration, I took full advantage of a little surf god generosity and hit the water just before preparing this article. Awesome, but sure enough I saw two surfers collide within the first five minutes of the session – chests were thumped, arms were waved, gums were flapped, and boards were severely dinged. Not good. When we teach surf lessons, we cover three main topics before we even think about touching the water – ocean conditions and safety, beginning surfing (paddling, standing up, etc.), and of course surfing etiquette. With the zenith of summer upon us, lots of warm water, crowded line-ups, and this surfing accident fresh in my mind; there’s probably no better time to review some of the most commonsense components of surfing etiquette. So for the non-experienced surfer, mind these following Ps and Qs…..

If a surfer is up and riding; then it’s your responsibility to stay out of his/her way. – The surfer riding the wave has enough to think about without you paddling right in the advancing face of the wave. Relax, think, paddle faster, in a different direction, or/and duck dive. Heck, paddle back towards the beach if you have too.

Similarly, don’t drop in on the same wave in front of a fellow surfer that is either; (a) about to take off on a wave or (b) is already riding a wave. More serious than just getting in the way, this egregious action completely blocks the surfer’s ride down the line and can be extremely dangerous in bigger surf. Look before you drop in.

If two surfers are on the wave and heading directly towards each other, then the surfer that was up and riding first has the priority. – Avoid that head on train wreck.

Don’t Ditch Your Board – You never ever have carte blanche permission to just throw your board away and dive under an incoming wave. If there happens to be someone behind you, then it will be very ugly – most certainly for the other surfer, but quite possibly for yourself once that other surfer realizes whose board just smacked him/her in the cabeza.

Know before you go. – Not comfortable in bigger surf yet? Take a break and take mental notes. Uncomfortable in crowds? Stay away from the surfing hot spots (the piers especially). Find your own break and catch all the waves you can.
Final Rule. – Have fun and obey all the rules!!

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com.

The 2010 Hurricane Season

2010-07-07T17:15:00.000-04:00

Wow, surfing sure is a sport of the elements here along the xtl-coast (crystal coast). The right storm, at the right location, for the right amount of time, blowing along the right distance of water, at the right tide, and the right local wind all have to come together for a truly epic session – sometimes you feel like you have a better chance of seeing the Easter Bunny and the Tooth Fairy on the same day. And while water and air temps don’t usually make or break a session (good waves = go surfing regardless); it’s been a wacky year. After arctic air and record cold water temperatures this winter that seemed to never want to go over 50 degrees, we just crossed the 80 degree water temperature threshold in mid June, which we usually don’t see until a week into July. Warm bathwater already…crazy...

And speaking of the elements, just about all the pieces are in place for a good, or at least active, hurricane season. Why you may ask?

Number 1 - Most experts agree the Atlantic Ocean basin continues to be in the middle of a heightened trend of tropical cyclone activity compliments of cyclical ocean-atmosphere interactions. This may be coupled with possible impacts from warming climate and seas (there’s still a lot of debate on this). This is more of the long-range environmental scenario.

Number 2 - In the more short term; sea surface temperatures are currently at record levels in the equatorial Atlantic. This (warm water) is often considered as the “fuel” of a cyclone, so we should see lots of counterclockwise buzzsaw-shaped cyclones (which are tropical storms and hurricanes) develop this year. So will these swell-producing rascals stay intact?

Number 3 - The answer appears to be “yes”. The masculine El Niño is waning in the Pacific and could transition into the feminine La Niña soon. Without getting into inordinate detail, El Niño equates to warm water in the Pacific, creating higher than average wind shear in the Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico (GoMex) atmosphere. As you may have guessed by now, La Niña is the opposite – cold Pacific water producing atmospheric conditions more conducive for tropical cyclone development/survival for us here in the Atlantic and GoMex.

So for 2010, we appear to have the fuel necessary for cyclones and nothing on a grand scale to suppress the cyclones once they form. Lots of wind, lots of open water, and lots of surf – sounds good. But where will all of the buzzsaws be heading?

Straight for us? Sure hope not – that is no fun and not worth a single wave we would receive in advance. Between the U.S. and Bermuda? Like that scenario – right in our wheelhouse. Will most of the cyclones stay south and keep traveling west either just north of the Leeward Islands/Puerto Rico, or further south? Who knows really - landfall probabilities and cyclone paths are dependent on short-term factors such as interactions with other weather systems coming across the U.S. and fluctuating steering patterns (i.e., the Bermuda High). So stay alert – stay safe – and safe travels if that’s what is warranted from time to time this year to catch surf. Hurricane season runs from June 1st to November 30th. Enjoy.

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com.

HOW TO SCORE WAVES

2010-05-31T15:17:00.000-04:00

This Pulitzer-prize contending edition of Off the Lip is being prepared as we’re having one of the worst years of surf (thus far) in recent memory. Sure, there have been a good day here or there, but that’s been sandwiched between week-long flat spells, and there have been precious few times surfers have spoke to one another with that crazed look in their eye over their last session. It’s been impossible to get into any kind of surf groove – i.e., surf four to seven days out of the week.

However; there are a few sure-fire ways to fix this flat spell, or perhaps even summon waves while you are out in the water and seem to be just bobbing up and down like a buoy, or even relish what surf is out there. And no - burning you surfboard as an offering to the surf gods is not one of the recommended avenues to produce surf. So in no particular order, maybe one or more of these ideas will produce waves, break the hex, and help us get our surf sanity back.

Write, talk, whine, and complain about the waves. Never fails and is part of the reason for this article. The surf gods don’t like to be denigrated and tend to vindicate themselves after being insulted for a few days. Just watch - it’s mid May as I’m hunting and pecking here on the keyboard, and the waves will probably be s-m-o-k-i-n-g as soon as the next Crystal Coast Outdoors hits the streets in June. Post script – True to form, we had our first almost tropical cyclone the last week in May that provided us some surf…see, it works.

Make the ultimate surf sacrifice for your buddies by leaving Town for a weekend (or shack-ra-fice for those who are “in the know”). For the conspiracy theorists out there (me included), it seems like this is a guarantee to get waves – you’re getting married or have another “can’t miss” family commitment 300 miles inland and the surf forecast will without question start to show head-high glass the precise moment you need to leave Town. Your surf brethren thanks you – take your time coming back home.

If you are out in the water, then announce to everybody that you just need “one more” wave and you’re done for the day. This small saying has one of three logical outcomes; (1) The best wave and ride of your day will come through forcing you to stay out for another hour looking for “one more”, (2) You’re already running late to an obligation so of course that “one more” wave never comes through. P.S. – the paddle of shame is never allowed (verboten); i.e., you paddle in rather than catching that last wave, or (3) You get that last wave but you kook-out and fall flat on your face. Have to end the surf day on a good note, so you paddle back out for just “one more”.

If you keep hearing “you should have been here yesterday” or “wait ‘til tomorrow”, then the surf is probably as good as it is going to get. We (surfers) are always hunting for the perfect wave, and are often guilty of not fully enjoying the waves that are being offered on any particular day. Guilty as charged – I’ve uttered the following phrases numerous of times - the tide is too full, the tide is too low, the wind just went onshore, it’s closing out, this sandbar configuration sucks, dang fisherman are in the way, etc. In this mindset, you tend to embellish the highlights of yesterday’s session and think tomorrow will be better than today. It’s Bogue Banks – if we do get waves, enjoy every minute of it.

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com.

DING - DONG

2010-04-30T13:12:00.001-04:00

Well Spring has finally sprung and undoubtedly the dog “daze” of summer will soon be upon us, which means there are a few other steadfast events to expect that are just as predictable as the sun rising and setting every day. The water will get warmer, school will be dismissed for the year, tourists and more surfers will flood the beaches and waves, barometric high pressure will take command and provide us lots of southwest wind chop, and we’ll all be obsessing over every counter-clockwise rotating cloud mass within the Atlantic hoping for some hurricane swell. This diabolical series of events can only mean one thing for that fixation of yours with fins – surfboards will be dinged, and they will be dinged often. Take your pick regarding the methodology – a collision with another surfboard in the water is a good one, an unpleasant encounter with shallow sand is common; but crashes into a car door or a “whoop see” on the driveway/parking lot are easily within the realm of possibility. A sacrificial burning of your surfboard for waves is perhaps the only thing you can consciously avoid, unless your friends have some other ideas.

While surfboard dings may be inescapable – quickly fixing your most prized possession is not. Regardless of the type of foam/resin combination you may have (traditionally referred to as “poly” or “epoxy”), once the fiberglass is cracked and water can get to the foam, it’s imperative to get out of the water and get ‘er fixed. Granted that’s hard to do when the waves are firing and the last thing you want to do is to end your session. But as most of us know, it’s almost impossible to get every drop of water out of the foam once it begins to get saturated. Thus we’re left with one of two unpleasant options; (1) cut out all (and we mean all) the saturated foam and replace it before glassing the repair with cloth and resin, or (2) go ahead leave the saturated foam intact, make the repair to the glass and watch the foam turn yellow and spread like kudzu before your very eyes.

Regardless if it’s a surface ding without any foam exposed, a minor ding where there has been little contact between foam and water, or a major gash with lots of saturated foam; you can try to fix it yourself or take it a surf shop for an experience repair. If you enjoy the trial and error process, then surf shops have all sorts of ding kits and materials for the home repair. Conversely, if you don’t want to deal with it or don’t trust yourself, then leave it for the professionals at your shop unless you know that “ding king” personally and can outreach to him directly.

And finally – a quick note to the visiting surfer. Ding repairs can take days or longer depending on the severity of the ding, so please be understanding if you drop off your board for a repair. It’s not an uncommon in the summer for a ding to happen late on the 4th day of a 6-day vacation. Of course everyone wants the ding to be repaired before they go home and the clock is ticking. Just exercise some patience and you’ll get the best ding repair as possible – we have some great ding repairers here along the Crystal Coastal.

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com.

THE BEST CONTESTS OF 2010

2010-03-19T14:06:00.000-04:00

One of the greater difficulties I encounter when preparing “off the lip” is finding the appropriate content and striking the right tone for a hugely diverse demographic of surfers that pick up a crisp copy of the Crystal Coast Outdoors – from hard-core young rippers, the old-skoolers who were actually born and raised here, beginners, weekend warriors, visitors who don’t surf at all, kooks, groms, and every one in between. However with spring in the air, there is no better time to discuss the contest season here along Bogue Banks and points south in North Carolina. Whether you compete, judge, want to break some bread with fellow surfers, or just want a family-style, festival-type beach event to go to – surf contests are the place. And oh yeah, they are also often the place to see some the best surfing by the best surfers in the area, if not the State. As one surfer who will remain anonymous has written, “The waves may suck, but the locals are way better than you (and anywhere in NC for that matter) - show respect and expect to get sprayed.” So mark you calendars boys and girls for the following events.

* The Central North Carolina District of the Eastern Surfing Association (CNC – ESA) - The CNC is one of 26 districts of the ESA that run contests each year promoting good sportsmanship, self-esteem, and surfing development, with everyone’s eye on the prize of the championships that are held at the surfing Mecca of Cape Hatteras every September. There are tons of age divisions and categories (longboard, shortboard, bodyboard, etc.), and the CNC extends geographically from Atlantic Beach heading south to Surf City. There are usually six contests a year at various locations starting in April and the CNC website has just been re-designed at http://cnc.surfesa.org/ - the full contest schedule is available from this portal. Each contest has a potential make-up weekend if the surf is flat or there are dangerous weather conditions, so as the folks say around here - “pay attention”.

* The Reef/Sweetwater Pro-Am Surf Fest – Perhaps not a local contest per se but circle it on your calendar as 2010 will signify the 6^th year of this contest, usually held in Wrightsville Beach located roughly 1.75 hours south of us. This contest is no joke – it is one of the largest contests on the entire East Coast and elite surfers from places such as California, Florida, New Jersey, and of course North Carolina all come to the party for bragging rights. There are lots of sponsors involved that make this event happen with keystones being Reef, Sweetwater Surf Shop, and WBlivesurf.com – the contest website is available at http://reef.wblivesurf.com/ and this year’s schedule should be posted in the not-too-distant future.

* The Buddy Pelletier Memorial Longboard Classic – Probably saving the best for last – you’ve seen the license plates, and have undoubtedly heard about the man, the myth, the legend, and East Coast Surfing Hall of Fame member Buddy Pelletier. The Buddy Pelletier Surfing Foundation was founded by his family and friends well over a decade ago now and 2010 will be the 11^th running of this Memorial surfing contest. The word contest should be used loosely however – although winning any division is an incredible accomplishment in its own right, the contest has become more of a tradition and a celebration with old friends getting together for a weekend of fun and memory. This event (or ritual) also attracts some of the best wave sliders from Virginia, South Carolina, and even Puerto Rico that converge at the Oceanna Pier in Atlantic Beach the last weekend in July. Don’t miss it.

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com.

COMMENTARY - ADIOS WINTER

2010-03-19T14:03:00.001-04:00

March 20^th is the first day of Spring for 2010 and it sure will be good to see the Winter of 2010 rapidly fading in the distance of the rearview mirror. I also need to eat some humble pie this year – normally I’m mocking our weather by referring to our four seasons as; (1) almost summer, (2) summer, (3) still summer, and (4) Christmas. This year we had a pure-T, bona fide winter and it was brutal for surfers on a couple of fronts (no weather pun intended);

(1) First and foremost, the waves have been pretty much non-existent. Sure, there was a one-day (or half-day) surf event here and there, but it was usually bracketed by a week-long flat spell (or more) on either side. There were really very few marginal days in-between either – very little feast and lots of famine in the wave category.

(2) Bone-chilling water temps were pervasive, especially in January and February. Our average water temp for both months is 51 degrees. I’m not sure we even saw a single day in either month that even hit 51 according to our resident fish expert and trusty daily water temperature taker, Dr. Bogus. The average LOW water temp in Jan. and Feb. is 48 and 50 degrees, respectively. Heck, we barely saw anything above 48 - period. Daily temps went way down in the low 40s and then it was 46, 48, 48, 48, 47, 49, 47, 46, blah, blah, blah for just about the entire month February. Muy frio!!

(3) Arctic cold air. Remember the good ol’ days when it might dip below freezing at night just a handful of times the entire winter – make sure to wrap the pipes, cover the plants, and bring in the pets. Jeez, this winter it seemed like every night (and most days) the mercury went south of the freezing mark. The wind chill was especially cold and for surfers, there’s nothing colder than freezing water on the wetsuit or the face and a 15 – 20 mph north wind blowing across exposed skin and saturated neoprene. Coffee intake this year was at an all-time high. De-caffeinated will work, but high octane is better.

So granted I probably don’t need any more “whine” with my cheese, but don’t think I’m alone in looking forward to better waves, warmer weather, and pleasant water temps. See you out there once all of these things come together, or beforehand if necessary. – www.eisurfshop.com.

DOES PRO SURFING MATTER?

2010-03-19T13:59:00.000-04:00

Maybe (leaning towards yes). Pro surfing is governed by the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) that coordinates; (1) the prestigious World Tour (known as the ‘CT for the old name of the World Championship Tour) and (2) surfing’s version of the minor leagues – the World Qualifying Series. The ‘CT is an elite group of the best 45 surfers in the world, and while some of the venues are aimed at attracting the masses at metropolitan beaches to the ever growing surf culture, most of the contest locations put the best surfers at the best breaks in the world – we’re talking third reef Pipeline, flawless Jeffery’s Bay, cavernous Tahiti, and more.

The World Qualifying Series (or “the ‘QS”) on the other hand can be a grind – there’s over 40 contests annually and each event has a rating, which equates to more points. For instance winning a 6-star prime event at Santa Cruz, Ca. will provide more points than winning a 2-star event in Japan. There are also hundreds of competitors from across the globe vying for enough points to qualify for the big show – the ‘CT. In general, the bottom third of the 45 ‘CT surfers are replaced each year by the top 15 ‘QS surfers. This reminds of the European soccer leagues – you move up a division if you’re on top – you go down a division if you’re on the bottom rung.

So what do pro surfers riding the best waves in the world have to do with the Bogue Banks regular, who most of the times is just grateful its breaking before or after work, or on the weekends? Well…one could argue “a lot”.

For one it can validate surfboard design. Twin fins were around for several years but gained little traction over the trusty single fin until Australian Mark Richards went loony on the pro-circuit in the late 1970s – early 1980s to win four consecutive titles. It took another Australian (Simon Anderson) to win a notable surf contest at Bells Beach on a tri-fin (thruster) before the surfing masses dropped the twin fin like a bad habit. Granted, it can be reasonably argued that a surfboard for a tip-top shape pro to surf perfect waves has very little relevance to the average joe surfer; there has been a recent shift towards experimentation. For instance, most surf experts agree that the pro “potato chip” boards in the 1990s were entirely to thin for most surfers who would get frustrated trying to catch and ride waves like they wanted. Sure, today’s pro boards probably aren’t for everyone but they are more relevant than ever. Additionally, top pros (like Kelly Slater) are now experimenting with quad fins, thicker and shorter boards, and other dimension tweaks – the surf media is taking notice which translates to more acceptance in the retail market. Heck, there’s even a bunch of quasi-pro “freesurfers” that don’t participate in contests at all, but get paid to travel and surf all across the world. Some within this group are re-visiting old designs and re-discovering the different feel these boards have, and incorporating these elements into new boards. Sure enough, this also translates into the boards available and advertised towards to the average surfer.

Otherwise the ‘CT or affectionately known as the “dream tour” also allows you to participate in a little “escape-ism”. Sick of the cold weather and water, and rather mind surf sunny Hawaii? Tune into the live webcasts or the video highlights and have a ball. Likewise, looking for ways to improve your form in the water? There’s almost no place better than the pro tour to study “how it’s done”. If you’re having a problems with your cutback, then maybe watch Joel Parkinson’s carve a perfect figure 8 for instance – look at how he shifts his weight, how the arms carry the body and board where it needs to be, etc… Although nothing beats seeing perfect surfing firsthand in the water by some of the better Bogue Banks locals, watching the pros is a great alternative

And finally and somewhat related to our board design segment above, there are also advances in wetsuit and boardshort technologies we enjoy that can be credited to the pro scene as well – both as a proving ground and as a business (money) incentive to push companies into improving their products.

Now with all of this said, there is a strong flip side – no one likes to be told what to wear, how to wear it, and why. The pro culture and the surf media is guilty of this from time to time, and heck, it’s great to just grab your board without worrying about anything.

What are your thoughts?

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com.

FINS TO THE LEFT, FINS TO THE RIGHT (and in the middle)

2009-12-11T17:04:00.000-05:00

Jimmy Buffet reference aside and despite what some experts consider as responsible for 1/2 to 1/3 of a board’s performance, surfboard fins remain a poorly understood component of everyone’s quiver. The nuts and bolts of fins however is pretty straightforward - the greater the surface area of the fin, the easier it will be to stabilize and control a surfboard. However a tipping point is reached when bigger fins start to drag a board down, so as everything life – balance is the key. Also in general and without getting into the subtleties of all the shaping details that go into turning a slab of foam into a surfboard, boards with a single fin in the middle and bottom the tail are fast but don’t exhibit much turning flexibility. Twin fins (a fin near each rail) are fast and loose but compromise stability. And of course the ol’ time proven thruster (tri-fin) seems to have the best of all worlds – great turning response and stability. Quads are different animal that we’ll save for another day.

The location of the fins can also change surfboard performance. Fins pushed back towards the tail is great for stability, yet fins brought forward will make the board turn more easily but it won’t be as stable. This conversation though is really reserved for single fins as most of the average twin fin and thruster surfboards come with the fins installed in preset locations.

This transitions us smartly into the 21st century finally and the “glassed-on” or plug/box discussion. Fins can be either permanently fiber-glassed to the board or can have a series of molded plastic plugs or boxes with tiny set screws that allow surfers to change fins whenever they like. FCS pioneered the plug system in the 1990s and Futures have come to dominate the fin box market. The removable fin systems are great for traveling, allow you to experiment with different fin set-ups, and in many cases are a quick fix if a fin is broken off the surfboard. And although glass-on fins seem to be going the way of the Dodo bird, they do have some advantages – many of today’s pro surfers still ride glass-ons. (1) The entire base of the board is laminated to the board, which provides better strength, (2) the drive and flex of glass-ons are often better than their plug/box counterparts, and (3) sometimes a glass-on fin repair is easier because the plug and box systems are recessed deep into the foam of the board, so if there is a bad fin break, there is more foam repair and you’re replacing the fin AND the plugs/box.
And finally and especially for twin fins and thrusters with plug or box set ups, there are a multitude of different fin designs that one can experiment with that relate the base (widest point of the fin, where the fin meets the bottom of the board), rake (the amount of the fin outline that is curved backwards), foil (thickness and curve of fin form the base to the tip), and tip flex. The cliff notes for all of this is the larger base – more drive; smaller base – shorter the turning arc. More rake – more drive and longer turning arc; less rake – more pivot. Flat foil – more pivot. And finally, more tip flex – more forgiving, less drive; less tip flex – more responsive, more speed and drive.

Confused yet? That’s no problem – just experiment with different fins. If you’re in a funk with your board, think about the waves you normally surf and if you wish to go faster, have greater stability, greater turning ability, etc. Experiment with base, rake, foil, and flex and have fun. That board that you might think is ready for the pasture could again turn into a magic stick.

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com.

RUBBER SOUL

2009-11-05T08:23:00.000-05:00

November is here and it’s time to carve up some waves like a Thanksgiving turkey or a belated Halloween jack-o’-latern. It’s also the first month of the fall/winter season when wetsuits are a must – according to our resident zen fishing master, Dr. Bogus, the average water temperature at the start of November is 66O Fahrenheit and concludes with an average temperature of 58O. In general, you’ll usually see surfers don the fullsuits once the water starts to dip below 70O.

The workings of a wetsuit is a pretty straightforward two step process – (1) the rubber allows water in and traps a small layer of water on your skin, and then (2) your body heat does the rest by warming the water and the rubber acts as an insulator of that warmth. Obviously the thicker the wetsuit - the greater the insulating capacity and hence “a warmer suit”. A “4/3” millimeter (mm) wetsuit along with 5 mm booties, gloves, and a hood are about as thick of material as you’ll need to charge the iciest of waters along Bogue Banks in January and February. However a 3/2 millimeter wetsuit can work for the fall and early spring months, and some of the winter. If you’re in the market for a wetsuit this year, then expect to pay anywhere from $100 to $400 for the suit and another $150 on booties, gloves, and a hood if you want to go there. You do get what you pay for, so here are a few bells and whistles to be aware of.

Your soon to be “rubber soul” is predominantly made out of synthetic neoprene rubber containing small bubbles of nitrogen gas. Other fabrics such as lycra, wool, spandex and even titanium fibers have recently been incorporated into wetsuit construction to increase warmth and flexibility. This has transitioned wetsuits from feeling like a Medieval Knight’s armored suit to almost wearing nothing at all. Today’s wetsuits are leaps and bounds from where they were just a decade ago let alone the fossils we were wearing in the 1970’s and 1980’s. Accordingly, the more alternative materials in the wetsuit – the higher the cost.

The wetsuit is also actually a bunch of pieces of rubber that are stitched together, and sure enough, the weak spots of the wetsuit are located right at the seams. Fortunately seams have also undergone a technological metamorphosis to increase durability and prevent water from directly penetrating your body. The better the construction, the warmer the suit and less chafing too. Again, you get what you pay for. Seam construction can transition from basic flat lock stitching that allows air and water through the seams, to waterproof glue and blind stitching, to the crème de la crème, which is liquid-taped seams that combines a strip of liquid neoprene/fluid tape with glued and blind stitched seams. Some wetsuits are 100% liquid-taped, others may be partially liquid-taped – pay attention.

And finally as a customer of ours once said after shelling out hundreds of dollars for a new wetsuit and accessories, “this isn’t just a wetsuit – it’s an investment”. He is absolutely correct and keep your returns coming from your investment by rinsing your wetsuit with freshwater after each session - you should get a few to even more winter seasons out of your equipment.

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com.

SURFING’S BEST MONTH

2009-10-12T21:39:00.000-04:00

While October is usually reserved solely for ghoulies, goblins, ghosts, and everything else Halloween, it is also the first full month of fall and a red hot month for fishing. But for me and probably a lot of other wavesliders out there; October is probably the best month to go surf. Sure September is the peak of hurricane season and may offer bigger and better swells, and the summer months don’t require a wetsuit, but October might be surfing’s best month here along the Crystal Coast for the following environmental reasons.

Waves – It’s not too late in the year to see the last breaths of the Cape Verde phase of the hurricane season, not to mention that any frontal system remnants also have a chance of developing into something tropical if they stall offshore. October can also see well-centered low pressure systems move across the Country and stall near the coast as well – i.e., early season nor’easters.

Crowds – Well, there are none really which is a welcome reprieve from packed summer line-ups. The local groms and young adults are back in school, vacationers are down to a minimum, and cooler weather and water spook some of the more casual surfers away. Not the greatest news for many local retailers and businesses that cater to these summertime demographic blocks, but the upshot is that it’s not uncommon to know everyone in the water you’re surfing with, or at least recognize ‘em.

Water Temperatures – The average water temperature (as collected by resident fishing expert Dr. Bogus) is 72 for October – it drops 10 full degrees a month later for a 62 degree November average. 72 degrees is comfortable – 62 degrees is downright cold. Quite often, you’re in baggies at the beginning of October and a full wetsuit come Halloween. The water feels crisp and clean just about the entire month – love it.

Sunsets – Thanks to the axis angle of the Earth relative to the sun, the sun appears to set a little more southerly in the fall rather than due west. For south-facing beaches along the east coast of the Atlantic, this means the sun sets over the ocean for the fall and part of the winter. Not too many other places along the east coast have this bragging right and the sunsets are usually an incredible orange you won’t see any other time of the year – again, love it.

Driving on the Beach – Regardless of what your position is regarding this topic, most municipalities along Bogue Banks allow ORVs (off road vehicles) on the beach in the fall and winter, and it can be an opportunity worth taking advantage of. This allows you to find the best location enjoy all of the intangibles mentioned in this article – you may find a great, unknown “mysto” surf break while driving down the beach or a magical place to watch the sunset. Good times with good people.

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com.

TOP 5 SURF ETIQUETTE RULES

2009-09-02T10:42:00.000-04:00

This article is being prepared as our first hurricane of the 2009 season is sliding right in between the wave-producing wheelhouse of North Carolina and Bermuda. It’s been raw meat for the weather media, hurricane junky blogs, and of course surfers – and that’s for a solid week even before the first hint of the swell lapped up on the beach.

To no surprise every beginner, intermediate, and advanced surfer within a 200 mile radius of the beach is frothing “to catch some hurricane surf”. Unless the swell is big enough to separate the men from the boys, then our local line-ups will be twice as packed as usual. Tempers will certainly flare because the following top 5 surf etiquette rules are not being followed in one form or another (usually by beginners or non-locals – sorry, just being honest).

So here they are in no particular order of importance – “learn it, live it, love it” (that’s a Fast Times at Ridgemont High quote for the Spicolli talking, checkerboard Vans wearing ‘ol timers out there);

Rule #1: Know the Right of Way (priority) – The surfer closest to the peak (where the wave is first breaking) has priority. If you’re paddling for a left, then you have priority if no one else is to your right and the peak of the wave – vice versa for rights. On a similar note, if someone is up and riding the wave, then he/she has priority – period. Also, be careful of whitewater sections – make absolutely sure the surfer coming down the line won’t make the section before even thinking about paddling. And finally, share an a-frame peak every now and then with your buddy – one goes right, the other goes left.

Rule #1a: Don’t Drop In – So closely related to rule #1 that it’s rule “1a”, and perhaps the most important. Dropping in refers to taking off on the same wave in front of a fellow surfer that has priority who is either; (a) about to take off on a wave or (b) is already riding a wave. This blocks his/her ride down the line and can be extremely dangerous in bigger hurricane surf. This is a sure fire way to get the infamous Bogue Inlet Pier stink eye, or even worse (the “fella treatment”). Look before you drop in.

Rule #2: Don’t be a Wave Hog – Transitioning smartly from rule #1 and #1a; all because you can catch all the waves doesn’t mean you should. This generally applies to friends of the foam – longboarders, stand-up paddle boarders, and hard-core fish aficionados. Give a wave, get a wave brother.

Rule #3: Don’t Ditch Your Board – If you’re paddling out and a wall of whitewater is coming, you don’t have carte blanche permission to just throw your board away and dive under. If there happens to be someone paddling out behind you, then there will be some carnage and some hurt feelings - if not something else. Yes, this is a hard rule for beginners to follow but too bad.

Rule #4: Don’t Paddle Out to the Middle of a Packed Lineup if you’re a Beginner. – Hate to keep picking on beginners but that’s what we’re here for - avoid paddling out into the middle of a pack of experienced veterans. Even though you won’t be trying to, you’ll be getting in their way and won’t catch as many waves. Try to go out to a less crowded beginner break.

Rule #5: Snake Accordingly – This rule is the most open to interpretation. “Snaking” is when a surfer paddles around another surfer in order to position himself to get priority for a wave - effectively making a big “S” around a fellow surfer. Not necessarily dangerous and we all have to hustle for waves but as related to rule #3 – don’t be a wave hog.

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com.

While the thought of a surf etiquette list was original, a big thanks goes to http://www.surfinghandbook.com who had a nice list already and was used as model for this article.

INDO DISPATCH

2009-08-03T11:41:00.001-04:00

Believe it or not, Indonesia (Indo) possesses a whopping 17,508 islands that are coarsely clustered into the Sundra Islands to the west and New Guinea to the east. Near the most northwest corner of the Sundra Islands you’ll find a smaller group of islands known as the Mentawais – home of some the best surf breaks in the entire world. You’ve probably seen the pictures, read the stories, and watched the movies of such breaks as Lance’s Right, Ebay, Hollow Tress, Rifles, and the list goes on and on and on.

Getting to the Mentawais from the Crystal Coast is no easy trick – a solid two days worth or more of international air travel with long layovers in Europe and Singapore, a multitude of time zone changes, and boat rides are all part of the offering. Emerald Isle native and big wave charger Carl Heverly just returned from not his first trip to Indo, not his second, not his third, but his fourth trip; and we thought it would be a good idea to debrief Carl on his most recent foray and reflect on those others in the past. It bears mentioning that his most frequent partner in crime is Atlantic Beach local Todd Martin, and there will likely be a full feature article with Carl and Todd in SurfCarolina Magazine in the not too distant future.

EI Surf Shop – So this is your fourth time to Indo, and there are pretty much two types of trips – the surf camp or boat trip. What has been your poison?

Carl Heverly (CH) – We did the boat trip thing once, which was good and have stayed at the Macaroni Camp, Kandui Camp, and the Aloita Camp this last trip. The boat is great but it’s tight quarters. I think our first trip was 2002, or something to that effect.

EI Surf Shop – How do you pick a surf camp with all the ridiculously good breaks in the Mentawais?

CH – Well, it’s not that hard of a decision really because there are guides with small boats at the camps, and they put you right on the spot that’s breaking that day. So there is really no bad choice – all the camps are great.

EI Surf Shop – Dang, can I go next time? Going back a little bit…how did you and Todd pick the Mentawais over any other spot in the world – heck, there’s great waves a little nearer to home.

CH – Actually, it’s any easy decision – the waves are absolutely perfect, there are no crowds, you can find a nook or cranny where the winds are cooperating every day, and the swells are endless. You’re almost guaranteed not to get skunked.

EI Surf Shop – This sound like an odd question, but have the effects of the global economic recession been felt in the Mentawais?

CH – I think so. The camp and boat trip companies are slashing prices and for a while, me and Todd were the only ones at the camp. Heck, I even surfed alone this past trip with nobody out and there was flawless 8 to 10 feet surf coming in.

EI Surf Shop – Now are there big lulls in between the sets? Or is it just waves after waves after waves?

CH – The waves definitely come in sets and there are some big lulls – it seems like every third or fourth set includes a huge clean up wave that drags everyone back to the beach. Don’t forget that the bottom is reef everywhere in the Mentawais so wiping out or getting pushed back without any control can be kind of dangerous.

EI Surf Shop – Have you seen or been part of any bad “reef rash” (wipeout) incidents?

CH – Macaronis and Hideaways are really shallow, and we saw a surfer get stuffed into a mini reef cave and his leash got wrapped around the reef as well. He almost drowned and had to take his leash off. Needless to say, he was freakin’ out – he was really bloody when he finally came up and didn’t surf for the rest of his trip.

EI Surf Shop – Uh, no thanks – I’ll pass on that. We all know the Mentawais are world renown and attracts the very upper crust of surfers. Who have you surfed with out there?

CH – Ironically, we surfed with Brad Gerlach the past two times, who won the Billabong biggest wave award in 2006 and finished number 2 on the world tour in 1991. He’s a jovial guy and is in absolutely tip-top physical condition, super dedicated, and of course charges those waves like it is his job. Hey – it is his job! (laughter). I also met world renowned surfboard shaper Jeff Bushman this past trip, and he and I talked for a while and became friends right off the bat. It was awesome to pick his brain being a surfboard shaper myself. I was riding some of my boards of course, so it was surreal having him looking and commenting on my shaping. I also surfed with Yadin Nichol; and Ozzie Wright - at Hideaways - even saw a wave of his that made the cover of Surfer or Surfing magazine – he rips. And on a different note, there are the Shamen, which is always a treat to see.

EI Surf Shop – Shamen?

CH – Oh yeah, the Shamen are believed to be some sort of are intermediaries between the human and spirit worlds. They must be 100% native and supposedly can treat illnesses and answer questions by entering the supernatural. Obviously, they are a dying breed and this last trip we were treated to an awesome Shamen ceremony. They blessed this new restaurant at the Aloita Camp and warded off the evil spirits, or something to that effect. They live in the bush and have the facial tattoos – the real deal. We even saw the chief of the Shamen, which again, was killer.

EI Surf Shop – Wow, that’s awesome – when are you going again?

CH – Next month (laughs).

EI Surf Shop – Good deal Carl – thanks buddy.

See you in the water until next time – http://www.eisurfshop.com/.

THE STATISTICS OF “SURF-A-BILITY”

2009-07-01T11:16:00.003-04:00

What’s the perfect wave? Ask 100 surfers and you’ll easily get a hundred different answers – double overhead or chest-high?, hollow or walled?, rights or lefts?, beach break or point break?, beginner or pro?, ying or yang?, black or white?, pipe or bowl?, up or down?, bottle or can?, republican or democrat? The variables for the perfect wave (and life in general) are endless, and leave it to surf geeks like yours truly to try to throw some math at the subjective term of “surfability”. This is actually now a bona fide field of coastal research that is getting some traction thanks in large part to our burgeoning beach population. Here’s why…

There are more people in the same space at the same time with competing interests and uses. This equates to more competition for finite resources and hence coastal zone management conflicts. The best way to protect your resource (good waves) is to quantify what makes that resource special. Granted I’m not sure we’re ever going to put a meaningful number on the magical feeling of riding waves, but the following constitutes the state of surf science in about 500 words or less. We’re definitely now migrating to Revenge of the Nerds territory, but it’s actually pretty neat. There are four variables to discuss.

(1) Wave Height – From half-a-foot ankle slappers to jaw-dropping tow-in waves eclipsing 40 feet, there’s a huge range of wave heights that are suitable for surfing. However, most waves surfed in the U.S. are between 1.5 to 10 feet.

(2) Breaker Type – There are four types – spilling, plunging, breaking and collapsing, but only spilling and plunging can be ridden on your shred stick or log (i.e., shortboard or long board). A spilling wave is considered as your “mushy” wave where the wave crest (top) becomes unstable and flows down the face of the wave creating whitewater (boring). Conversely, your plunging wave is a “tubing” wave where the crest curls over a relatively steep wave face (my favorite).

For the sake of completeness, a collapsing wave is your “close-out” wave – the crest remains unbroken and the wave face steepens to point of collapsing all at once (not fun). And finally, a surging wave is the oddball wave where the face of the wave starts advancing towards the beach and begins to break before the crest does (that could be painful). Equations such as the “Iriberran number”, and now the “Vortex ratio” have been used to mathematically quantify and differentiate one break from another.

(3) Peel Angle – This variable is perhaps the most important or is a close second to wave height. Low peel angle values are bad for surfabality – high peel angle values are good. This explanation won’t be easy but we’ll give it a try.

Obviously if the wave closes out and breaks all at once, then your ride is very short or non-existent. If the wave gradually breaks and “peels” a long distance, then you’ll probably be able to get a great ride. The peel of the wave is characterized by the peel angle, which compares the position of the whitewater endpoint along the line of one wave to that same point on the preceding wave. A close-out has a peel angle closer to 0 degrees, and peel angles at or about 55 to 60 degrees are surfable for most riders.

(4) Section Length – Some may argue that currents are really the fourth variable, but we’ll opt for section length here. If the wave remains unbroken down the line, then the chances are you’ll get a good, long ride. If the wave breaks in front of you, then the ride will likely be over real quick. In other words, longer sections of unbroken waves are usually favorable. Skillful surfers are experts at negotiating sections or both unbroken and broken waves.

This is just a brief, shotgun introduction to wave surfability – there’s some very bright people that are advancing this field of science, so expect more to come in the future.

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com.

Sources used for this article include;

Benedet, L., Pierro, T., and Henriquez, M., 2007. Impacts of coastal engineering projects on the surfability of sandy beaches. Shore and Beach, 75 (4), 3-20.

Scarfe, B., Healy, T., and Rennie, H., 2009. Research-based surfing literature for coastal management and the science of surfing – a review. Journal of Coastal Research, 25 (3), 539-557.

2009-06-02T23:32:00.003-04:00

PIER PRESSURE

By no means is this intended to be a scholarly legal article and I’ll probably get some sand thrown at me from all directions for writing this, but with summer and crowds right around corner, it’s time to discuss surfing do’s and don’ts at the ol’ faithful wave mecca – Bogue Inlet Pier. Yeah, that’s right – we’re going there. Let’s review some basic jurisdictions first because by-golly, Tarheel surfers pride themselves on the inalienable right to beach and surf access.

Going from land to sea…. (A) The oceanfront property owner has legal claim to his/her property all the way up to the high tide line. (B) However, the flat part of the beach that essentially runs from dune line to the high tide line is referred to as the public trust beach – i.e., the public has the right to enjoy this part of the beach without the fear of trespassing. How easy or difficult it is to get the beach in the first place (public access) is a whole different story. And finally, (C) the State owns everything a “cannon shot” seaward from the high tide line, which is defined nowadays as 3 miles.

These lines in the sand are great, but we can’t let one important caveat escape our conversation, which is that the State allows municipalities to regulate various activities along the public trust beach and State-owned waters. Basic land and water uses are often regulated in this manner such as; littering (don’t do it!), turtle nests (don’t touch ‘em!), profanity (watch your manners rude boy!), and beach driving (only in the winter!) are just some examples that municipalities may have incorporated in their ordinances and enforce.

So now we get into the nitty-gritty – a south swell had developed and there’s smoking corduroy lines coming in off the horizon. When it breaks, she’s a-framing and chest-high immediately adjacent to the east of Bogue Inlet Pier - peeling lefts (towards the pier) and rights (away from the pier). Oh yeah, I forgot to mention it’s also late September and the spots are biting like mad with about a couple hundred head on the pier casting hooks with bloodworms and sinkers in rapid-fire succession. So, where do you surf?

The Town of Emerald Isle passed a new, modified ocean & sound activity ordinance in February that includes the following highlights for surfers; (1) The distance surfers and everyone else must remain from a pier was reduced from 250 ft. to 200 ft. (2) A new swimming zone within 350 ft. seaward of the pier house was instituted and is exempt from the 200 ft. requirement – i.e., swimmers can wade in the water but not too far out near the world of gotcha plugs and bottom rigs. (3) New language modeled after State law was included in the Town’s ordinance that makes it illegal to operate any boat, personal watercraft, or other vessel (including surfboards) in a reckless manner that endangers persons and/or property. And (4) The stipulations pertaining to surfing near the pier is applied only to the March 16 to November 30 time period.

What does all of this mean? Violate any of the ordinance provisions and you could get a ticket and a fine for either surfing too close to the pier or under the guise of endangerment – stay outside of the buoys for most of the year. Practically speaking however, and this is where it becomes subjective, follow this very simple advice…

Use common sense and be respectful – let’s face it, the police don’t want to spend their time issuing tickets to surfers and other water enthusiasts, and if there are no conflicts brewing between fisherman and surfers, then surfing by the pier is pretty much accepted. That’s not condoning breaking the law or anything, but “it is what it is”. Some self-regulating between surfers becomes necessary every now and then too. Even if fishermen are behaving badly (yelling and throwing lead your way) and you’re within the exclusion zone, it’s probably a good idea to keep it mellow. One complaint by a fisherman to the pier house and the police are coming, which greatly improves the odds of someone getting a ticket. Mike Stanley (the pier owner) is indiscriminate to surfers as whole and is very friendly to those he knows – he lets us park, walk the pier, and chill on the beach just like every other demographical block who visits the pier. I bet most of the time, he doesn’t mind us surfing at the pier at all (my words not his obviously), so there’s no reason to give him or yourself/ourselves any headaches.

So with this in mind, here’s to a summer chock full of great surf and a good, no drama vibe at the pier.

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com.

THE ULTIMATE BOGUE BANKS WESTSUIT & WATER TEMPERATURE GUIDE

2009-05-04T21:59:00.015-04:00

Graph depicting the average monthly surf temperatures including the average range of temperatures at the beginning and end of each month (1995-2009). Data courtesy of Dr. Bogus.

Warmer water should be on its way by the time you’re reading this, meaning we can shed the wetsuits and purchase a nice new pair of board shorts from EI Surf Shop to live in for the next several months – we have lots of ‘em for this summer (sorry – couldn’t resist). That shameless plug aside, this year has not conformed to the typical seasons we usually have here at the Crystal Coast – almost summer, summer, still summer, and Christmas. We’ve actually had a winter this year and the water temperatures have been particularly cool.

This leads us to one of the more common line of questions we often receive at the surf shop concerning wetsuits – do I need a fullsuit now?, a 3/2 mm or 4/3 mm?, a hood?, booties?, gloves?, a springsuit? Four factors usually play into answering these questions actually.

(1) The most important is easily water temperature --- no duh, most of your body will be in contact with the water when surfing. (2) Air temperature and wind – cold air and/or wind hitting exposed to wet skin will make your whole body colder - vice versa with warm air. (3) Sensitivity to the cold – let’s face it, moose surfers like myself have more meat on the bone for insulation than your average toothpick-profile grom, and (4) activity level - bottom line here is either keep paddling to stay warm or go ahead and zone out while waiting for the next set and get cold.

However as mentioned above, water temperature trumps everything and for the first time ever (I think) and with actual seasonal data that has been generously provided by our resident fishing expert, Dr. Bogus - a Bogue Banks seasonal wetsuit chart is presented in this edition of “off the lip”. The average monthly water temperature for over the past 13 years from the ol’ faithful surfing spot, Bogue Inlet Pier, including “range bars” is plotted on the graph. The range bars depict the average water temperature at the beginning and end of the month. The wetsuit equipment needed for each temperature zone has also been added to the graph - granted the temperature thresholds are by no means absolute. For instance, some surfers may prefer to wear a fullsuit with booties at let’s say a 58 degree water temperature while others may opt to toss the booties in the closet for the year.

For yours truly, a few items jump off the page (see below) when looking at this graph that make a lot of sense when “ground-truthing” out in the water. What are your thoughts?

(1) Our springsuit window is awfully small – maybe two weeks in May and a couple weeks in October as the water cools back down – that’s it.

(2) The August water temp is ridiculously consistent – the monthly average is 83, the average at the beginning of the month is 83, and the average at the end of the month is 82.

(3) Again looking at the monthly average, we never dip below 50 degrees and the end of January is traditionally the time of year when we experience the coldest water.

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com.

2009-04-04T12:00:00.004-04:00

THE J.D. PRIVETT INTERVIEW

Are you ol’ skool? The Privett family goes about three generations deep in Swansboro and is one of the older names in this area. J.D. Privett has been an Emerald Isle/Bogue Banks surfing local for decades and recently started shaping (and glassing) his own surfboards under the “Bogue Inlet Products” label. If you haven’t seen J.D. plying the waters near Bogue Inlet Pier recently, then you couldn’t miss his two sons who frequent the pier waters all the time – Jamie and Cameron. J.D. also fixes dings for us here at EI Surf Shop – thank goodness because it is quality. So with all of this in mind, we sat down with J.D. last month at his shaping bay to discuss his surfing and shaping experiences.

EI Surf Shop (EI): Okay, you know we’re going to let loose here, so what does J.D. stand for?
JD: You had to ask (laughter) – James David.

EI: Touché - Tell me a little bit about when you started surfing.
JD: Well, Junior Poston and me were drug to the beach by his older brother Paul. No one would let us use their board so me and Junior saved enough money to buy one and we traded – three waves and switch. We were about 12 – summer between 7th and 8th grade – I knew right from that point I was hooked.

EI: Where were you surfing back then? Bogue Inlet Pier?
JD: We weren’t allowed to surf the pier back then (laughs) – it was regulated more heavily then by the locals. Junior’s Mom begun to drop us off along Coast Guard Road for the entire day and we learned to surf, and then started to slip into the pier line up. The localism was more heavy then obviously, which reflecting on it, was probably a good thing compared to now.

EI: So when did you start gravitating into ding repair and shaping?
JD: It was out necessity back then because we had to fix our own boards but Randy Hall (before he moved to Rodanthe and started Hatteras Glass surfboards) and Donald Stone (moved to Nicaragua a few years ago) were in the area and were fixing lots of dings. Randy would put me and Junior to work to help pay off our own ding repairs and it fascinated me. Junior really got me into it and before you know it, I had 5-10 boards at a time to fix. Finally I got the courage to ask Carl Heverly to show me how to shape, and he was so gracious – he showed me the ropes.

EI: Wow. You’re also that rare breed that now shapes and glass. What’s hardest aspect of shaping?
JD: Believe it or not, it’s the fear of taking too much foam off the board, especially with the electric planer because once you take it off – you can’t put it back on. I’m extra careful with sandpaper and fine-tuning the board. Actually though, the whole shaping process is fun – even the subtleties like putting in concaves and rockers.

EI: Okay – how about glassing? What’s the hardest aspect?
JD: Everything – my hats off to glassers. My first board was a great shape but looked like well……this is a family publication, but you know what I mean. Randy Hall as mentioned above is one of my mentors and I was fortunate enough to have him stop by my shaping/glassing shop behind the house and show me a lot of the tricks. My boards immediately improved. Chris Jones also gave me some very sage advice that has been put to use. It’s you’re classic “the more I glass – the more I improve” scenario.

EI: Last question (at least for this month) – what type of feedback do you look for?
JD: There’s a fine balance between float and maneuverability, and I want surfers to catch a lot of waves and rip. If they are having problems in either of these areas, then I want to know so we can improve the process. What waves they work better in, etc.

EI: Thanks bro - awesome.

See you in the water until next time – www.eisurfshop.com

JD fine tuning a fin box on a custom surfboard.

THE SURF WIDOW’S REVENGE

2008-10-08T11:51:00.000-04:00

We had an excellent run of surf in the beginning of September with the cyclone duo of Ike and Hanna producing a solid two week’s worth of waves. Classes were skipped, sick leave was used, and 3-hour long “liquid” lunches were the norm. And when rumors of surf start surfacing, there’s only one thing we need to do. Break out the big wave gun and wax the board? Nope. Buy a few extra board shorts and leashes? Wrong. Gas the vehicles for a road trip to follow the swell? Not even close.

If you thought about your understanding and loving spouse/significant other, who will soon be a temporary surf widow while you go out and play for several days on end, then you’re a lot smarter than most people give surfers credit for. If not, be aware and very afraid of the Surf Widow’s revenge – that deft and innate ability to impose chores and other responsibilities to the oblivious, yet surf guilty spouse.

You’ve been surfing for weeks and your arms and shoulders feel you’ve been swimming against Michael Phelps, you’re so rashed up that it looks like you fell off a motorcycle with no shirt on, and you’re skin is so tight from all the sun that it feels like you’re going to pop. Nothing would feel better than a nice afternoon nap on the couch when you quietly hear…”Honey, the house sure could use a power wash and a paint job”. After two weeks of ignoring every and any family responsibility you had for the memory of lip bashes, open-face cutbacks, and tube rides; there’s only one thing you can do. Turn on the water and air compressor, and get busy. You may also hear…“It would be a great time to start on that bathroom remodeling project we’ve been discussing for the past three years.” Unconsciously you should start thinking about the price of grout and tile. Think a simple mowing of your two feet high weeds will do the trick? Think again – it’s time to build a couple of flower beds, plant some trees, and spread a couple hundred yards of mulch.

Is there any way to avoid the Surf Widow’s revenge? After years of study and in-depth trial and error, the answer is yes.

Take the soon-to-be surf widow for a nice dinner as soon as a low pressure system develops in the Atlantic that shows potential to provide us waves – begin dropping hints of your “schedule” for the next week. Back this full-scale frontal attack with a rear-flanking dose of flowers a day or two later. Get the lawn mowed now. You’ll be taking time off work and school anyway, so take an extra day before hand to complete that one household project that has been looming over your head for the year. If your kids don’t surf, then spend as much time as you can with them before your surf sabbatical – spoil ‘em absolutely rotten with or without mom’s approval. Dairy Queen for breakfast, lunch, and dinner for a week should do the trick. It would be great to keep discussing more ways to avoid the hex of the Surf Widow, but after watching the Weather Channel this morning, it’s time for me to get busy……so don’t forget to thank your surf widow at every chance you can, and see you in the water until next time! – EI Surf Shop

CHECKING THE SURF

2008-09-01T08:48:00.000-04:00

I’ll admit it – we’re completely spoiled when it comes to surf forecasting and reporting. Just think that back in let’s say 1988, surfers had the nightly weather man and maybe some hard copy weather maps to develop their own surf forecast. Perhaps a trusty pick-up was used for early morning ground-truth surf checks to see if their educated predictions were on the mark.
Fast forward twenty years to 2008, and the amount of surf information we have today almost borders on the absurd thanks to the internet – animated swell models, real-time wave data from ocean buoys (or even satellites), and forecasts from qualified surf meteorologists/oceanographers are all just a mouse click away. No reason to really even get in the truck any more for a morning surf check either - live video camera feeds and daily surf reports with pictures from your local break can all be accessed in the comfort of your home before the first cup of coffee is even brewed.

Despite all these electronic bells and whistles, the morning or afternoon surf check will remain a time-honored tradition in my book – the actual speed of the wave, surface texture and currents, the top to bottom form of a breaking wave, and the other sights, sounds, and smells of the ocean simply can’t be captured by surf cams and pictures. But with that said, the internet can help plan your surf week and maximize your valuable water time by capturing just the right conditions. So accordingly, the following is a quick guide to our local surf report/forecast websites. Granted there are plenty of more national type websites that you can draw lots of information from such as surfline.com, wavewatch.com, stormsurf.com, www.fnmoc.navy.mil/public/, and plenty, plenty more. However, we’re going to keep it local for now and in no particular order, the list includes;

http://www.eastcoastsurf.com/ – Created and maintained by Rob Baker, and although I have no data to back it up, I bet it is one of the oldest surf reporting websites out there in all of cyberspace. It has a forum-style reporting section and daily reporting for Emerald Isle (EI) with photos is very consistent on this site thanks to Ron Butler and yours truly.

http://www.eilivesurf.com/ – Provides a live, 24-7 rotating streaming video from the ol’ faithful surf spot of Bogue Inlet Pier courtesy of Ron Butler. Is there anything else you need?

http://www.surferphotos.com/ – Owned by Graham Hunt and created by Brad Styron of Playa Graphics fame. The surfcam is currently situated at the Town of EI’s western regional access (commonly referred to as the Islander), and the viewer has complete control of the cam’s position in addition to seven pre-set views – including zoom. It’s awesome, and there is plenty of other surf eye candy at this site to keep you occupied.

http://www.swellinfo.com/ – Not really a local website per se but it’s a nice one stop shop for forum-style reports, forecast model runs, real-time conditions, etc. Micah Sklut created and manages the site and for the sake of full disclosure, the reporting from EI is by that bald-headed guy at EI Surf Shop.

http://www.cormp.org/ - CORMP is an acronym for the “Coastal Ocean Research and Monitoring Program” and is coordinated by UNC-Wilmington. The site provides an interactive map of just about all the oceanographic/atmospheric platforms (gauges) in Onslow Bay and part of Long Bay regardless of their ownership. In other words, it synthesizes all of the platforms owned by State research institutions and Federal agencies and places the data streams all on one site. Local winds, wave heights, wave periods, etc. in real time are all there for the taking.
Directional Wave Gauges – These little rascals are for the hardcore surf-o-logist and require special equipment that can differentiate all the seas/swells in the water at one time. The graphics made available in nearly real-time plot the direction and period of the seas and/or swells in the water at any given time – not just the combined or average values. I believe there are only three in the State that are currently being maintained and include the following:

Bogue Inlet Pier - http://nccoos.org/platforms/bogue-inlet-pier/rdi-spectra-plots
Duck Research Facility – http://www.frf.usace.army.mil/eve/loop.pl?plotName=polar&gage=wvrdr3630
Masonboro Inlet - http://cdip.ucsd.edu/?units=metric&tz=UTC&pub=public&map_stati=1,2,3&nav=recent&sub=observed&stn=150&stream=p1&xitem=dir_spectrum
You should be armed and dangerous with this info - see you in the water (not in cyberspace) until next time! – EI Surf Shop

BOGUE BANKS SURFOLOGY 101

2008-08-01T08:44:00.001-04:00

Hurricane Bertha delivered us some nice surf last month while conveniently staying east of Bermuda and obviously far away from the continental U.S. Bertha started as a tropical wave emerging off Africa on July 1st, strengthened into a tropical storm on July 3rd, became a hurricane on July 7th, and oscillated back and forth in intensity all the way up to a Category 3 hurricane and down to a tropical storm before fading into the Northeast Atlantic for good.

It was a little early in the hurricane season to see a “Cape Verde” cyclone and actually, the formation of Bertha was the farthest east a tropical storm has ever formed in the Atlantic so early in the season. So again, thank you Bertha for a nice early pulse of waves – July 12th was especially good for us. With Bertha and the hurricane season fresh in our minds, there’s no better time to discuss how and why Bogue Banks receives (or gets shut out of) waves.

Fig. 1 – Bertha was the longest-lived hurricane in July, longest-lived tropical storm in July, and the farthest east forming tropical storm and hurricane for so early in the season. Oh yeah...she also delivered us some waves.

Bogue Banks is one of those “good news – bad news” south oceanfront-facing beaches – a rare commodity in North Carolina, let alone along the entire eastern seaboard. The good news is that Bogue Banks is sheltered from nor’easter low pressure systems that emerge off the continental U.S. (usually north of Cape Lookout) and stall in the Atlantic. We’re immune from the several day gale blows, flooding, and beach erosion that compliment the victory at sea conditions of a nor’easter. Actually, the northerly winds that accompany the storms result in glassy conditions for Bogue Banks, albeit it’s usually flat unless we’re lucky enough to see a little wrap swell - but that’s few and far between. The bad news is that we’re immune from those victory at sea conditions of a nor’easter and when high pressure takes command again and brings offshore winds and epic conditions to the Outer Banks – we’re stuck with nothing except for frantic phone calls and a few SUVs full of young groms leaving at 2 in the morning to grab some OBX juice for a day or two.

More good news and proof positive for Bertha – when it’s hurricane season, the same troughs that re-curve cyclones out to sea also provide northerly winds, which equates to the arrival of long-period hurricane swell with just a kiss of offshore wind. The bad news – Bogue Banks and most other beach communities along the ocean embayments of Onslow Bay and Long Bay jut seaward like a boxer’s chin poised for a direct hurricane uppercut strike. Fortunately and despite what the media tends to focus upon, most cyclones do re-curve before hitting Bogue Banks and with all the different shoreline orientations at our disposal, it’s not hard to hop in the boat and find the spot where all the elements come together.

And finally, our Bogue Banks surfing 101 discussion wouldn’t be complete if we didn’t discuss the “summer surf”. High pressure takes command off the Carolinas for most of the summer months and depending on her location and a host of other factors, the end result is usually an onshore SW windswell that can literally last for weeks on end. It’s sloppy, it’s erratic, and it will drive you nuts; but it’s our summer time bread and butter so enjoy.See you in the water until next time! – EI Surf Shop

SURF WAX

2008-07-01T08:41:00.000-04:00

There’s something about that feeling you get when opening a fresh bar of surf wax to put on your surfboard (especially a new board). It’s hard to explain, but the coconut, berry, or other fragrant smells of wax reminds you of the good times in the past and all the great waves ahead. So with summer now upon us and the smell of wax in the air, there’s no better time to review this rather sticky subject.

The main role of surf wax is to keep the surfer from slipping off the board when paddling out or riding a wave (i.e., traction). Today, surf wax is generally a blend of paraffin and beeswax type additives, augmented with resins, synthetic rubbers, and heavy alcohols to provide more traction and softness. There are probably twenty or more different labels of wax today that are specifically made for surfing. Granted some companies are making wax under several different labels.

It’s rumored early surf experiments with household paraffin-based waxes (floor wax, candle wax, etc.) may have initially started in the 1930s, with more significant garage-style petroleum experimentation occurring in the 1950s and 1960s. The first breakthrough for surf wax can be traced to 1967 when Mike Doyle and Rusty Miller formed Surf Research and created Waxmate – the first wax exclusively developed for surfing rather than for burning candles, or waxing wax floors, or sealing jars full of fruit preserves. Soon thereafter however, a Colorado businessman bought the company, and marketed the wax for skiing.

The subsequent vacuum in the surf wax market was filled by two individuals in 1972 whose companies are still thriving today. John Dahl was a former employee of Surf Research and started Wax Research – the maker of Sticky Bumps surf wax (I love that stuff). At just about the same time and also in California, Frederick Charles Herzog III (a.k.a. Mr. Zog) launched the infamous Sex Wax. Mrs. Palmer’s surf wax from Australia coupled with Sticky Bumps and Sex Wax are also probably the most recognized wax labels. Bubble Gum and Famous are also very popular.

Recently, there has been a movement to create “eco-waxes” that reduce the reliance of petroleum based products in the wax formulas and packaging by using renewable/bio-degradable additives and materials. Sticky Bumps for instance now has a soy-based wax. Similarly, Matunas wax is non-toxic and bio-degradable, and the packaging utilizes soy-based ink and recycled paper.

Another very important part of the surf wax equation is the pliability factor. In colder water, a softer and sticky wax is required that will not become too hard and lose that desired putty-like feel. However in warmer waters, wax that is too tacky and sticky simply melts off your board and therefore requires a harder "tropical" or "warm water" wax. Just remember that wax used in water colder than its rating will become hard and not provide the tackiness required to stay on a board, while wax used in water warmer than its rating may melt.

So with this surf wax primer in mind, all there is left to do is apply some wax on a clean surfboard deck and go get some waves. I prefer to rub the wax in a circular motion first (on the deck of the board where your feet will be planted once standing). Once a small layer of wax forms, then run the wax in a nose-to-tail then a rail-to-rail direction. A pattern of ridges will develop before you know it and you’ll be in business.
See you in the water until next time! – EI Surf Shop

Thanks to the following websites for the historical information…
http://www.surfline.com/surfaz/surfaz.cfm?id=944
http://www.waxresearch.com/
http://www.sexwax.com/

ROAD TRIP!

2008-06-01T08:36:00.000-04:00

Last month we discussed some of the more popular surf spots along Emerald Isle, and even though this is the Crystal Coast Outdoors magazine, we can’t get by too much longer without discussing the wave-Mecca of the east coast – Cape Hatteras, N.C. If you ever get bit by the surfing bug for life, then you’re almost certain to make a trip to that thin piece of sand extending from Oregon Inlet south to Hatteras Inlet. As a matter of fact, there are probably just a handful of surfers from Maine to Florida that haven’t made a trip to “Hatty” at one point in their lives.
It’s a roughly four hour trip door-to-door by road only from the Crystal Coast, and closer to six hours or even longer if you take the scenic ferry route from Cedar Island to Ocracoke, and then Ocracoke to Hatteras Village. This amount of time on the road and/or on boat doesn’t faze many Crystal Coast surfers who will drop what they are doing in a minute for a day’s road trip at even a hint of a good Hatteras swell. We’ll discuss a few factors to why Hatteras is the shrine of east coast surfing in a few, but if you do ever make the trip or have in the past, you’ll probably come home with four images permanently etched in your psyche - fantastic waves, monster mosquitoes (often referred to as the State bird), the black & white candy cane striped Hatteras light house in Buxton, and more recurring images of fantastic waves.

Although the island has been dissected by many inlets in historical times, Hatteras Island is essentially a 55-mile long continuous sandbar with the exception of a few very noticeable fat spots. But more importantly, the continental shelf off Hatteras Island is at its thinnest point anywhere along the east coast, which means there is less drag and interference imposed on waves as they approach the coastline (that’s a good thing). Cape Hatteras also protrudes out towards the Atlantic Ocean so it receives swells from the north and south, unlike many barrier islands in other states that are often sheltered from one swell direction or the other. Hatteras is also where the cold water Labrador Current dead ends into the warm Gulf Stream, which adds more wrinkles to the wave climate. And finally, there are some geologic features that also have an impact (mostly positive) to wave quality and island orientation.

The orientation factor is big deal along Hatteras and there are three major axes. The northern third of the island south of Oregon Inlet to the Town of Rodanthe (the area of the Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge) trends NW – SE, then almost due N – S from Rodanthe to Buxton for the middle third of the island, and NE – SW from the tip of Cape Hatteras down to the ferry docks in Hatteras Village for the southern third. So besides picking up just about every swell that is in the Atlantic Ocean basin to start with, these three distinct orientations can just about guarantee that you’ll find a glassy wave (offshore wind) at some point during a multi-day swell event.

For many readers this Hatteras review is all old news and there is a book’s worth more to discuss. But if you haven’t been to Hatteras, then take a little surf trip up north – lodging can be a lot of fun as well. There are tons of great camping opportunities and hotels can be reasonably priced in the off season. See you in the water until next time! – EI Surf Shop

WHERE TO SURF?

2008-05-01T11:33:00.000-04:00

OK – you got yourself a new board, the water temperature is just about at that point where all you need is some boardshorts and sunblock, and you’re ready to surf. So where do you go?
Well, the easy answer is “anywhere” and that might not be a bad angle to take if you’re interested in getting away from the crowds and honing your wave riding skills. The Town of Emerald Isle (EI) roughly constitutes the western half of the 25-mile long island of Bogue Banks and for the sake of this article; you’re committed to staying in this area. But some areas of EI tend to break better and offer a more advantageous wave for surfing. So let’s cover some of the more popular and best breaks in EI running from east to west.

First Stop (Old EI Pier / New Aquarium Pier) - The Town of EI’s Eastern Regional Access is located near milepost 15 and is the site of the Old EI Pier, which used to be the spot in the older days before the hurricanes of the 1990s destroyed the pier and ended a glorious run. There is a good break there now that is gaining a little popularity lately – it can close out hard (break really fast) on a dead low tide but there are a few peaks or zones right in front of the access point. The N.C. Aquariums is planning to build a concrete pier at this same location that should be completed in 2012. The Town is also currently in the process of building a new handicap observation point on this large piece of property. And finally, this is also the closest break to EI Surf Shop – we’re not even a quarter of mile down the road to your west (couldn’t resist the shameless plug).

Second Stop (Bogue Inlet Pier or BIP) – Or otherwise known as ol’ faithful. BIP has been consistently good lately and gets zoo-ish in the summer with the crowds in the line-up. Plus recently, there has been strict enforcement of the “no surfing by the pier” rule (no secret there). The waves break nicely on both sides of the pier most of the time. BIP is an emotional place – a lot of people have raised their children, been married/proposed to, or have even said a final good-bye to friends in the shadows of the pier.

Third Stop (The Islander) - The Town’s western regional access is known as “The Islander” - the break right in front comes and goes, but there appears to always be a good break in this general area – just walk down the beach a little bit to your east or west if right out front is not doing it. This is a tremendously popular access in the summer – it’s just off the EI bridge, past the first lighted intersection.

Fourth Stop (Undisclosed) – Your final stop is a little more tricky. There are breaks further to the west of the Islander off Coast Guard Rd (take your first right off the EI bride). However, the sandbars are more ephemeral and parking is much more of a challenge. See you in the water until next time (probably at one of these spots!). – EI Surf Shop

SURFBOARD PRIMER

2008-04-01T11:31:00.000-04:00

The last day of winter was March 19th, meaning the hallmarks of warmer water, less rubber (wetsuits), an influx of people, and the good vibes of Spring are upon us. Normally I’m stoked to see winter come and go, but this past winter’s waves were consistently awesome. Brad Styron of www.surferphotos.com has enough surfing pictures already this year to rival his collection from all of 2007.

Spring fever also often results in the insatiable craving for new board, and there are more choices in shapes and materials than ever before. There are longboards, retro-boards and funshapes that have more volume and longer or wider dimensions that provide some additional float, and of course, there’s the ol’ shred stick (shortboard). Plus there is a relatively new tolerance in the surf community for fin set-ups. A decade ago, there was nothing but thrusters (three-fins) on just about every shortboard and funshape. The gentle-natured Australian Simon Anderson is credited with the thruster design that took off in the very early 1980s, and still remains the most relevant fin set-up almost 30 years later. They have the perfect balance of speed and turning ability. However, today’s quad (4) fins are gaining acceptance – they have that stable feeling but an extra element of speed & looseness. Twin (2) fins were made most famous by the legendary 4-time champion and board shaper Mark Richards and slide across the wave face with ease. Single fins are fast as they can be but take a little more work to turn.

The real change in surfboards lately lies in the materials now used for construction. Polyurethane (PU) foam with fiberglass cloth and polyester resin is what most surfers ride – it seems to have the perfect balance of flex and float. Even though you don’t necessarily have to ride what the pros do, there’s a reason behind why almost all of them are still riding PU foam with polyester resin.

Expanded and Extruded Polystyrene foam with epoxy resin has a toe-hold in the market now as well (collectively known as “epoxy boards”). Without getting into advanced organic chemistry, the foam has a different structure than PU, and epoxy resin is needed because polyester resin would burn this different type of foam. Sometimes the shell of epoxy boards is actually a sandwich of multiple layers of very thin sheetfoam and fiberglass cloth. In general, epoxy boards are more lightweight and durable than the PU foam/polyester glass surfboard, but for some, the boards appear to lack flex and responsiveness.Despite the differences in construction, purchasing a new surfboard is expensive – expect to pay anywhere from $400 – $700 (even more) for a shortboard or funboard. Longboards can eclipse the $1,000 threshold, and the dirty little secret is that the mark-ups (i.e., profit margins) your local or mega surfshop place on a board are very minimal. Accordingly, most shops are real careful in what they offer so it’s worth talking to them if you don’t know exactly what you’re looking for or are in the need of that very first surfboard. See you in the water until next time. – EI Surf Shop

WETSUITS 101

2008-02-01T11:29:00.001-05:00

Wetsuits – a subject nobody likes to think about but an absolute necessity for the beginner, intermediate, and advanced Bogue Banks surfer. While 10 out of 10 surfers would much rather surf waves in warm water with nothing but a pair of boardshorts and some sunblock to worry about, there are actually a few positives to surfing in cold water with a wetsuit. The waves can be pretty darn good, it keeps your stoke level up through the winter (very important for your sanity), keeps you in shape, and the crowds in the water are down to a minimum. Heck, you can even drive on the beach and find your very own break – even though personally I’ve had a hard time gravitating away from Bogue Inlet Pier or Old Emerald Isle Pier lately.

With all the buzz phrases for wetsuit components like “zen closure system”, “elastomax material”, and “vaporflex technology”; it’s easy to forget the concept behind the wetsuit is pretty simple – the rubber wetsuit allows water in and traps a small layer of water on your skin. Your body heat does the rest by warming the water and the rubber acts as an insulator of that warmth.

Although it’s a difficult number to pin down, your body heat and insulating powers of even the thickest wetsuit can’t keep up with prolonged exposure to water at temperatures of about 40o Fahrenheit and below. Ideally you would be in dry suit territory once this temperature threshold is reached, which prohibits any water from touching your skin at all. However dry suits are loose and clumsy, and none have been made specifically for applications in surfing.
Your wetsuit is predominantly made out of synthetic neoprene rubber containing small bubbles of nitrogen gas. Other fabrics such as lycra, wool, spandex and even titanium fibers have recently been incorporated into wetsuit construction to increase warmth and flexibility. Most any surfer will agree the wetsuits today are a quantum leap above where they were just a decade ago thanks to these new introductions. Your wetsuit is also a bunch of pieces that are stitched together and the seams have also undergone a metamorphosis to increase durability and prevent water from directly penetrating your body.

There are all sorts of cuts and thicknesses of wetsuits as well - from a 2 mm thick spring suit that covers the body from the knees to the elbows in the spring and fall transition periods, to a 5 or 7 mm thick full suit that covers the entire body during the depths of winter. The thicker the wetsuit – the warmer (more insulation). Booties, gloves, and a hood to warm your feet, hands, and the ol’ cabeza are a must this time of year.

In terms of cost, the top-shelf 4/3 millimeter full suit with all the bells and whistles is running close to $400. You can find full suits for $100 but they don’t have all the seam technology and fabrics mentioned above, and there are some nice mid-range full suits as well on the market. Are the extra hundreds of dollars for the top-shelf full suit worth it? For me, absolutely yes. You’ll be more comfortable in the winter water, which will make your surf sessions more enjoyable and you won’t be as apprehensive about getting in the water that next session. The cost of booties, gloves, and hoods doesn’t swing quite as wildly as full suits and you’ll be looking at close to $150 for everything. Rinse all that rubber with freshwater after each session and you should get a few to even more winter seasons out of your equipment! See you in the water until next time. – EI Surf Shop

Steve Head (founder of Superheat) Interview

2008-01-01T08:22:00.001-05:00

January 19th, 6 pm, Michelangelo’s Pizza, Emerald Plantation

Just a reminder that Emerald Isle Surf Shop, Hurley, and Outer Banks professional surfer Noah Snyder will bring the Superheat Challenge to Emerald Isle on January 19, 2008. The Superheat Challenge is a surf or skate card game based on real surfing/skating competition. This should be a great interactive surf/skate night and there will be plenty of freebies from Hurley and Emerald Isle Surf Shop. To get you psyched for the January 19th Superheat Challenge, we interviewed the founder of Superheat and long-time surfboard shaper, Steve Head. Check out http://www.hurley.com/blog.cfm?aid=7258 for some action shots of the Superheat Challenge taking place in the Outer Banks last year.

Emerald Isle Surf Shop (EISS): Hey Steve – we’re stoked to coordinate this event with you and appreciate you inviting Hurley as well. That’s awesome. Let’s go generic here at the moment – what is the Superheat all about?
Steve Head (SH): The Superheat is a surfing and skateboarding contest card game played in hands, and in a contest format. Each player gets a round of cards, followed by a series of drawing and discarding in order to build the highest scoring hand. Involved in that too are specialty cards for added points.

EISS: Now tell us about the characters and the concept.
SH: That was really fun developing. The characters are fictitious and we tried to replicate a worldly overview of surf characters. For instance, the character “Ollie Banks” is based loosely on our area of the Outer Banks. “Zar Richards” is an Australian shaper and an old-skool ripper, and “Hunter Noll” is your quissential Christian Californian, vegan, earthy-type ripper as a couple of other examples. We have some women characters as well.

EISS: So basically you have a character and play the cards that are geared toward your character.
SH: Exactly. For example if you were “Ollie Banks” and I was “Hunter Noll”, then you would want to get as many cards that have “Ollie Banks” doing tricks and I would want to get as many cards with “Hunter Noll” doing tricks because they are worth more. You can score using any character, but you score more if you use your own character. One thing that may confuse people at first is that you’re not going after a full house or straight – you’re just trying to score waves and tricks using your character.

EISS: Killer – How did you develop the Superheat.
SH: Wow, it really started back in 1998 and my wife was just diagnosed with breast cancer and was in intensive chemo-therapy, underwent hormone treatments, and went through multiple surgeries. It was unbelievable. I was freaking out and being an artistic guy, I needed a release. A couple months later, a few friends of mine were sitting around discussing dreams and one of my buddies who owned a card and comic shop, Dan Drummond, said “hey, let’s create a surf card game”; and another friend of mine Britton Ricketts, who later became the illustrator for Superheat chimed in as well. It was just beer talk at the time really but it stuck with me. So while my wife was recuperating, I would stay up at night and try to figure out how to make a set of cards into a cool surfing game. I developed a prototype that was way too complex, and would take forever to play. So I went back to refine the game and my buddy Matt Walker, who is senior editor of Surfing Magazine said, “Use Your Resources – you’ve been in the industry for decades”. He was 100% right, and I called up Noah Snyder and we went ahead did an Outer Banks set – Noah, Billy Hume, Jesse Hines, Jeff Myers, etc. were characters and used Mickey McCarthy photography – the works. It was great and I went to California and wound up playing the game with none other than Rob Machado. Through that trip I realized I needed more than a regional-type game. Ideally it would be great to have pro characters like Kelly Slater, Andy Irons, etc. but that wasn’t going to happen so we spent a lot of time creating good, realistic characters and to make the game fun and easy to play. We got the first shipment of Superheat games in July 2007. Just looking at the cards now is emotional. It’s been a ten year journey, my father died while I was working on the game, all the travel, fighting and beating my wife’s cancer - it’s been just unbelievable.

EISS: That’s an amazing story….Wow - that’s intense. OK, let’s try to change gears to a lighter note and discuss the Superheat Challenge in Outer Banks – the pictures of the events on the Hurley website look super-fun.
SH: The Superheat challenges we’ve been doing up here started again as a concept, and Noah (Snyder) and I just decided to give it a shot. We did it and had a full house of people that were both playing and just watching – it turned out to be really, really cool. Not just for Hurley, the game, and us – but the kids were totally 100% stoked – I mean hugging me after the game – the whole deal. It’s been really neat because if you think about it….we live in the computer/video game age, and the Superheat is 180 degrees opposite of that – it’s a card game and there’s a lot of interaction and camaraderie with fellow players that makes it really fun. That was part of the intention of the game – to play the game together compared to being zoned out sitting in front of a computer screen.

EISS: Steve, thanks – that’s a great interview. See you and the crew on the 19th!!!

The Central North Carolina Surfing District of the Eastern Surfing Association

2007-12-01T11:11:00.000-05:00

***Don’t forget to submit your membership by December 31st***
http://www.surfesa.org/

We have a ton of east coast and regional surfing champions in our neighborhood, which is even more impressive considering the rather small competitive area we have. For those who don’t know, amateur competitive surfing along the Atlantic seaboard is under the umbrella of the Eastern Surfing Association, or ESA. The Central North Carolina Surfing District, or CNC is simply our local surfing district within the ESA. As we’ll see in the following interview with long-time director Beth Schub, membership is really important, so sign up or renew by December 31st if you can.

EI Surf Shop (EISS): Hi Beth – let’s discuss some of the basics of the CNC and ESA.

Beth Schub (CNC): Actually we’re one of the 27 districts up and down the east coast from Maine to Florida and into the Gulf Coast of Alabama; including districts in the Great Lakes and Puerto Rico. The CNC is within the Mid-Atlantic Region, which qualifies us to participate in the Mid-Atlantic Regional championships that are held in May of each year. We work towards participating in the Regionals every year by holding six local surfing contests that usually run from March through September. We surf for points and the top point getters in each contest division at the end of the year get an opportunity to compete in the regionals the following May. Then the top performers in the regionals get an invitation to the Eastern Championship that is held every year in September at the famed Cape Hatteras lighthouse.

EISS: Jeez, how many divisions do you have and what is the general geographic area of the CNC?

CNC: We basically encompass the area including Bogue Banks down to Surf City, which has been great from a wave quality standpoint because we get both south-facing and east-facing conditions to compete. What’s interesting is that Topsail Island surfers can join either the CNC or the Southern North Carolina Surfing District, or even both. However, you have to list a home district if you want to qualify for regionals.
In terms of the number of surfing divisions, we have something on the order of 26 divisions that includes all age divisions, longboard divisions, shortboard divisions, body board divisions, etc. One thing we (CNC) do is offer an entry level division for many of the age groups, which has been great because it gives new competitors an opportunity to get their feet wet in competition instead of getting blown out of the water by the more experienced, seasoned competitors. This has especially worked well in some of the older groups. It has increased our membership very nicely and lets the competitors ease into things a bit.

EISS: How long have you been involved with the CNC?

CNC: I’ve been a director or co-director since 1996 and was actively involved a couple of years before that. John Doyle was looking to step back a bit as director in the mid 1990s and we divided things into committees to learn the ropes – one thing lead to another and here we are.

EISS: Wow - that’s a ton of work too. What are some of the biggest changes you’ve seen in the past decade – surfing ability or organizational changes, etc.?

CNC: We’ve always had awesome talent, especially considering our quality of waves and the relatively small geographic area the CNC encompasses. Virginia for instance is a single district. More than anything however; is the parental involvement which provides a tremendous amount of longevity and a family style of appeal that many other districts probably don’t have. We have families with generations of adults and kids involved with the CNC, and that makes people feel they have a vested interest in the CNC. It’s a wonderful way to meet surfers all up and down the coast and after a while, you can paddle out just about anywhere and know somebody. Of course competition is not for everyone and we have a lot of members who don’t compete but continue to be members to show support – which again has been absolutely terrific. You don’t have to be world class surfer to join or even compete – the emphasis is always about having fun.

EISS: To be honest, membership is obviously one of the reasons why EISS wanted to have this interview – what are some of the options and why is it so important.

CNC: Well, the way the competition structure is set up; we’re all about getting into the championship event. The Eastern Championships is such a neat and prestigious event – there’s a lot of tradition and the waves are almost always guaranteed to be good. So the more members a district has – the more slots you get for the Regionals, which obviously gives a district a better chance of making the Eastern Championships. So at the end of every December, the official membership count is taken for ESA and then compared to other Districts in your region. The slots awarded to each District for the Regionals are consequently proportional to the District membership. So one of the best things you can do for CNC is to simply join.

EISS: Perfect, now how do you join?

CNC: Most of the surfshops have the membership forms or you can join online at http://www.surfesa.org/. The District’s website is http://www.cncsurf.com/. Memberships are for a year so the membership will take you through the next contest season. Individual memberships are $40/year, which includes a complimentary subscription to Transworld Surf Magazine, and most of the surf shops provide a 10% discount to ESA members. Family memberships start at $50/year and go slightly upward depending upon the number family members.

EISS: Thanks Beth – Great info!!

The Carl Heverly Interview (round 2)

2007-11-08T11:00:00.002-05:00

Surf check for the past month (September 16th to October 15th)

Wow, September was as lackluster as you can get – especially considering the 9th month of the year is supposed to be the peak month of the hurricane season. The latter part of September was downright dreadful. However, convergence of stalled high pressure systems to our north and low pressure systems to our south pushed consistent slugs of waves our way for most of the first half of October. The gradients between these pressure systems generated the winds and seas we needed for some much welcomed surf relief. This is a great time of year – the water temperatures are pleasant, the crowd factor in the water is low, awesome sunsets, and the waves usually aren’t that shabby either.

Back by Popular Demand – The Carl Heverly Interview (round 2)

With cold water coming our way, we were all set to discuss the why, how, and what of wetsuits in this month’s Groundswell. However, we had such a great response to last month’s Carl Heverly interview that we decided to sequester Carl here at the shop for a second round of Q & A. This time we tried to demystify the surfboard dimension vocabulary in the process. For instance, what does the following comment really mean?... That narrow board with lots of rocker and a pintail really held the wave during that last big, hollow swell we had. PS - For those who missed last month’s article, Carl is one of a handful of true old school locals, and shapes surfboards under the label CHS (Carl Heverly Shapes). So without further delay – round 2.

EI Surf Shop (EISS): Hey Carl – hope all is well. You know we throw around terms such as nose, tail, rocker, thickness, and other surfboard dimensions like it’s no one’s business. What do they really mean? Let’s discuss the nose and tail first.

Carl Heverly (CH): Actually the nose and tail measurements are 12 inches in from the actual tip of the nose and tail, respectively. So the nose dimension is the width of the board taken 12 inches down the board from the very front tip of the board – the tail dimension is the width 12 inches up from the very tail end of the board. An average nose dimension on a shortboard is roughly 11 to 12.5 inches.

EISS: How do those dimensions change the response of a board?

CH: A wider nose would make it easier to paddle because there is more foam available to displace the water, but once you’re on the wave; it inhibits maneuverability. Of course striking the right balance is always the trick. For the tail, it really depends on what type of wave is being ridden. If it’s a big wave; then you want the tail tucked in so it doesn’t catch on your bottom turns. A wider tail helps you slide up and down the wave face when it’s smaller.

EISS: We have the nose and tail – now how about the center? Is the center dimension taken at the very middle of the board or is that dimension taken at the widest part of the board even if it is a little bit above or below the very middle?

CH: It’s the half way point between the nose and tail measurement – regardless of where on the board the widest point exists. Usually the center measurement corresponds to the widest part of the board anyway, but again sometimes you want the wide point towards the nose like for a fish shape, or towards the tail so you can pull the nose dimension in a little more.

EISS: Great, so let’s discuss thickness. What is it?

CH: We go to the center measurement of the board like we just discussed and get the thickness of the board at that point, again regardless if a thicker point exists towards the nose or tail. Usually the thickest part of the board is right at that center measurement – right under your chest as you’re paddling.

EISS: So obviously thickness is not continuous throughout the board – why do you narrow the board towards the nose or the tail?

CH: With the tail, you don’t want it to be too thick or it will never bury into the water when you’re trying to turn – it will be faster down the line because it will be on top of the water. Again balance. The nose thickness is also a balance between maneuverability and speed.

EISS: Okay, now let’s discuss one of the more subtle dimensions – rocker. What is it and what does it do for a board?

CH: That’s right - the rocker is the “flip” in the nose of your board – it’s more subtle in the tail. Entry (front) rocker is important because that is where your board first makes contact with the water. So you don’t want too much nose rocker or else you’ll be plowing the water (too much drag). Too little rocker and you’ll pearl (nose dive) and your friends will laugh at you in the process (laughs).

EISS: We definitely have to discuss tail shape – let’s go through the list and the pros and cons.
CH: It depends what you are riding – on a smaller wave, you want more width in the tail to keep you on top of the water so a swallow or squash tail is the way to go. As we hinted at earlier; if the waves are big, then go with a pintail so you don’t spin out when trying to turn at faster speeds.

EISS: Any other dimensions worth noting?

CH: Not other dimensions per se, but you can make the bottom edges of your rails real sharp or soft – the transitions of the rail shape from the bottom to the top are important aspects of a board as well.

EISS: Awesome. Ok Carl, we’ve been tossing you softball questions for these interviews so now it’s time to take off the gloves for a real zinger - who is the best surfer with the Heverly last name? (laughter by both)

CH: We’ll just have to hold a contest heat to find out!

Below: Carl in his shaping room tweaking various surfboard dimensions for another satisfied customer.

The Carl Heverly Interview

2007-10-01T11:34:00.004-04:00

Surf check for the past month (August 16th to September 15th):

So far, this year’s hurricane season has been about as exciting as a summer weekend traffic jam on the Emerald Isle (Cameron Langston) Bridge. However, we did get a week-long push in the latter stages of August from a back-to-back interaction of hurricane Dean and high pressure to its north that shot us a pulse of waves followed by a tropical disturbance south of us. Spots along the northern outer banks were really firing. We paid dearly for this nice run of waves with a weeklong plus flat spell followed by a much-hyped tropical storm Gabrielle. We had waves – but nothing spectacular. We’re past the climatological peak of the Hurricane season (September 10th) but there is still ample opportunity this month to score some cyclone powered groundswell. Historically, the period from August 20th to October 14th produces the greatest number of storms.

The Carl Heverly Interview:

Considering Emerald Isle (EI) was incorporated just 50 years ago, there are actually precious few old schoolers who can legitimately say they were born and raised surfing in Town. There are even fewer who have fellow brothers that are also raising a whole second generation of wave sliders including world traveling east coast champs. If you haven’t guessed it already or are just visiting the area, we’re discussing none other than the Hevelry’s and this month we have an interview with Carl Heverly, who along with brothers Ken, Dave, and Roy constitute one of the biggest blocks of the local surf community foundation. Carl, besides owning a construction business, also shapes a mean surfboard under the label of CHS (Carl Heverly Shapes) either available “off the rack” or custom shaped for individual needs. Carl also doesn’t hesitate to answer the beckoning call of Indonesian waves from time to time, in addition to other points around the globe. We sat down with Carl last month at the shop to discuss his shaping experiences, surf travel, and the good ol’ times of wave sliding in EI.

EI Surf Shop (EISS): Hey Carl – good seeing you. So how long have you been shaping surfboards and what got you started?
Carl Heverly (CH): I started shaping about 10 years ago after contemplating it for many years. I had a friend, Kelly Richards (Perfection Surfboards) who I was riding for and I would watch him shape boards. So one day, I purchased a blank piece foam and took it down to Kelly and he helped me go through the whole process. He really got me on the right track along with Dave Endress (Pride Surfboards). I’ve been shaping here in EI ever since.

EISS: Real briefly, what’s the board making process?
CH: It starts with a template, which is traced onto the foam and then the foam is cut to mimic the template (outline) of that particular board shape. Then we “skin” the blank to remove most of the excess foam from the top and bottom of the board. The fine tuning work is completed with a planer until the final dimensions, rail shape, and rockers are all where they need to be. I’ll mark where the fins should be placed and then send it to the factory where the board is airbrushed, glassed, and the fins are installed.

EISS: What’s most difficult aspect of shaping a board and what’s the easiest?
CH: Wow, that’s a tough question but I would say getting all the bumps out of the bottom of the board – you want to have zero resistance on the bottom so water flows underneath the board without any drag, and therefore maximizing the board’s speed. You want a continuous flow from nose to tail. The easiest part is cutting the template – the first cut. Because from that point on, once you remove the foam – you can’t put it back. I have a routine I go through to get a board at a good point for me, and then I can fine tune everything.

EISS: Great, I also understand that you’ve started to shape kite surfing boards. How has that experience been?
CH: Basically my brother Kenny got me into kiteboard shaping – he kiteboards all the time. He asked me to shape a kiteboard one day and he liked it and along with Chris Keiser from Wind Toys, they began giving me feedback. It’s like a miniature surfboard with a harder edge on the rail and more durable, heavy glassing.

EISS: Wow that sounds awesome. Where do you go to get one of your surfboards?
CH: EI Surf Shop of course – custom orders or right off your shelf. For kiteboards, go to Wind Toys in Cape Carteret.

EISS: Great (thanks for the shameless plug too) and now transitioning to the past – what are some of your fondest memories surfing in Emerald Isle?
CH: Growing up at the EI Pier – it was great. Our parents were there – they had food (laughs). We would hit the grill first thing in the morning. It was all we did, if we weren’t surfing – we were fishing. My father wouldn’t let me surf until I cleaned up the trash in the parking lot and pier – couldn’t think of anywhere better to grow up. Editor’s note – the EI Pier was located at the site of the Town’s Eastern Regional Access near milepost 15 and EI Surf Shop.

EISS: What changes have you seen that have been the most dramatic in either terms of equipment, the crowds, access, etc.?
CH: Board designs have been the biggest change. Instead of hanging in five – you have to catch air and the boards have reflected this shift. Boards today are super light and thin to do all of those skateboard inspired moves. The skateboarding meets surfing movement is huge.

EISS: Now on a closing note, it’s no secret that you have a love affair with Indonesian waves. What makes those waves so special?
CH: Oh yeah…every wave you surf is perfect from the time you drop in to the time you kick out of the wave. There are flawless waves that peel down the reef forever – this past year I witnessed and surfed the best waves of my entire life. Caught the best tube ride I ever had too. It’s a surfer’s paradise – the islands are beautiful, the water is crystal clear, the people are really nice, and the water is warm and the weather is tropical. There’s really nothing else you could ask for – I’m going back next year.

EISS: What are some of your other favorite surf spots around the world?
CH: There are a bunch but Mexico stands out – Puerto Escondido, or “mex pipe” (Mexican Pipeline) is unbelievable. Even though I almost drowned there; it is an incredible wave.

EI: Thanks a lot for this interview – this has been great. Got time for a surf?
CH: Always – let’s hit it!

New “real time” directional wave data available at Bogue Inlet Pier

2007-09-01T11:00:00.001-04:00

Note: This is the first edition of "Off the Lip" formerly “Groundswell” – a monthly article sponsored by Emerald Isle Surf Shop with the latest news, surf summaries, and interviews dedicated to the surf community along the Crystal Coast.

Surf check for the past month (mid-July to mid-August 2007)

The dog days of summer, err um, surf have plagued the past month with not a whisper of tropical cyclone activity and their much anticipated groundswells to speak of. That’s actually not too unusual from a purely climatological standpoint. Although we’re crossing the midpoint of the hurricane season, which runs from June 1st to November 30th, the period from August 20th until October 14th produces the greatest number of storms. The true peak of cyclone activity (storms and hurricanes) is September 10th, so we could be in hurricane swell nirvana by the time you’re reading this. 2004 and 2005 enjoyed tons of earlier than normal surf deliveries – 2006, and now 2007, appear to be falling in line with a more traditional pattern.
But to whoever is in charge - no directs hits on Bogue Banks please. That’s a sinking feeling to be in the water enjoying the surf knowing full well that boarding the home and business, evacuation, flooding, and the dreaded clean-up are only a few days away. Please initiate all activity off the Cape Verde Islands and swing the cyclones across the Atlantic to only curve up the slot between us and Bermuda – providing us only waves in the process. Thank you.

New “real time” directional wave data available at Bogue Inlet Pier

If you’re one of those surf-crazed computer junkies that can’t spend enough time on the internet looking for the spot of the day or when next infusion of waves will arrive, then it might be a good idea to bookmark http://nccoos.org/platforms/piers/bogue-inlet/bogue-inlet-fishing-pier. While upon first inspection this website may seem just like a bunch of odd numbers, squiggly lines, and funny-looking graphs; you have actually locked into a virtual goldmine of real-time wave data. The instrumentation is maintained and operated by UNC’s Institute of Marine Sciences and is resting on the seafloor roughly 1,000 foot south of Bogue Inlet Pier (the old faithful wave spot) in about 25 foot of water.
Your traditional wave buoy provides a series of single numbers that statistically summarizes wave height (distance between the crest and trough), wave period (time between successive wave crests), and direction, which is great, but in the real world the sea is comprised of many different heights, periods, and directions. Their interactions simply can’t be described by just one number. That’s where the directional data comes into play – swells hitting this newer piece of instrumentation from different angles, heights, and periods are displayed in a directional spectrum plot. Once you get the hang of it, you’ll be able to tell if multiple swells are hitting the beach, and differentiate which waves are the result of junky windswell vs. more organized groundswell. Data concerning water temperature and current speed up and down the water column are also updated every hour.Without getting into a detailed discussion of wave physics and sounding like an installment of the Revenge of the Nerds, the website http://polar.ncep.noaa.gov/waves/pres/primer/primer_1.html has nice primer if you’re interested. While this new generation of wave instrumentation was created for scientists to improve wave model calibrations and enhance predictive capabilities for storms, it is a tremendous resource for surfers and other water enthusiasts to take advantage of.